On the Ground. Installing pavers isn’t just a matter of sticking them in the ground. For one thing, proper preparation is crucial. “If the job is graded, prepared correctly, and compacted adequately you won’t have a problem,” Chazen says. Without it, the product can pop out, settle, or move in the ground.
Stabilize the ground the way you would for a concrete deck. While grading the area—to slope slightly away from the pool, of course—make sure it is sufficiently compacted. South Florida soil, for instance, has a lot of organic material, so it must be removed. You may have to contend with an erratic clay. If that’s the case, dig out 4 to 6 inches of the problem dirt and replace it with an immediately self-compacting, well-draining substance such as crushed stone. Chazen uses a gravel that’s approved by the state of Florida for roadwork, called SRD screenings. Different areas have their own stabilization soils, Essig adds.
Next, place a 1- to 2-inch-thick layer of sand over the gravel. This leaves a soft yet self-compacting bed on which to tamp the paver stones.
Finally, dig and pour a perimeter footing. This 4-by-4-inch to 6-by-6-inch footer outlines the deck and keeps it from separating from the pool. “It’s not what you’d call a structural footing,” Chazen says. “It’s just a little trench with poured concrete that prevents the outermost pavers from moving outward and developing spaces between the deck and the pool.”
Place the pieces over the sand bed, spacing them uniformly for even joints, Chazen advises. Next, pour a fine sand over them. Use a power tamper to secure the stones in place. The vibration will cause the fine sand to settle and compact between the pavers.
If you and your client have selected a particularly porous type of decking paver, coat it with a sealer to protect it.
